It is not easy to cook in a war zone. Just look at Ukraine. But the deliberate destruction of cities cannot deprive people of their cuisine. A brutal war with Russia has converted many dining establishments across the country into soup kitchens. At least in the early days of the war, hybrid operations were started to help ensure that citizens and soldiers would receive meals.

Today, restaurants continue to support humanitarian feeding programs. For example, Yevhen Mykhaylenko, the founder of a chain of ramen restaurants, started the “Magic Food Army” charitable gastronomic fund, which prepares sandwiches, semi-finished products, and lunches for the army. And of course, World Central Kitchen, the charity started by celebrity chef José Andrés, continues to work with local chefs to ensure that food is available in multiple locations that have been hard hit by the conflict. But high-end establishments are also functioning, often in the face of adverse conditions like lack of electric power, shortages of staff, or water shortages.

Dining out has also become a patriotic duty for those who can afford it. It helps the economy while also creating a sense of community. The stress of trying to survive when the wail of air-raid sirens punctuates your daily routine is another reason people have turned to food to relieve anxiety and reconnect with comfort foods. A recent study led by Alla Petrenko-Lysak, a sociology student at Kyiv National University, explored the impact of this war on Ukrainian culinary practices. Among her conclusions was the importance of gathering at familiar restaurants to share a meal to create community.

Read the full article at Inkstick Media.